Caulking a tub?

topic posted Mon, September 28, 2009 - 11:55 AM by  Mary
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Okay, the white stuff between the tub edge and the edge of the tile is caulk, right? If a bathtub is caulked correctly then how long should it go before peeling and getting gross and having bits break off and having to be re-caulked?
posted by:
Mary
Orlando
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  • Re: Caulking a tub?

    Mon, September 28, 2009 - 3:09 PM
    .


    a lot of factors come into play...
    moisture, type of caulk, temperature.

    2 years - 7 years.


    .
    • Re: Caulking a tub?

      Mon, September 28, 2009 - 4:24 PM
      The latex composition caulk will eventually dry out and like you say, get dingy and breaky.

      There are alot of caulk products out there at HomeDepot.
      When recaulking, pay about 50 cents more per tube for a part silicon blend. The silicon sticks much better to tile, will cure to a rubbery (not brittle) consistency, and will be effective lots longer. Better yet is a 100% silicone caulk (comes in colors). The more % silicone, the dearer it gets.

      That's the stuff.
  • Re: Caulking a tub?

    Mon, September 28, 2009 - 7:05 PM
    How long it should go is not determined by any single factor.

    Is the water chlorinated? That lengthens the life by preventing mold.

    Is there good drainage in the design and installation of the tub such that water sheets off the caulked edges immediately? That makes for less mold.

    Is The caulk installation very well done with smooth surfaces and no ripples especially at the edges? That too prevents mold from getting a foothold.

    Do the bathers leave a lot of soap residue and fail to wipe the tub down after use? That feeds mold.

    Mold is an issue. It's tendrils break the caulk down opening it up for more organic compounds and more mold.
    Proper application is your best friend.
    After that you can improve the game by going for a higher end material.

    But if you put GE's best caulk down and it's all ripply and sloppy, you are going to have mold - period.

    I'd like to see an antimicrobial anti fungal caulk that really works. That would really help the home gamers.
    • Re: Caulking a tub?

      Tue, September 29, 2009 - 5:26 AM
      Normally, GE silicon caulk cures to a glassy rubbery consistency that will resist penetration by funghal micro-organisms. Par contre, the porus microcavities typical of lesser materials might allow fungus to take hold. Good ventilation and frequent applications of Lysol are indicated in such event.
      GE caulk tubes are labeled as being able to hold up for 10 years or 25 years of normal use -- which is as good as a moneyback guarantee. In addition,based on GE's claim, one would have total legal recourse to compensation in the event of water damage to floors & walls stemming from product failure within that timeframe.
  • Re: Caulking a tub?

    Tue, September 29, 2009 - 7:57 AM
    Another issue to look at is: Was the previous installation done to a completely clean surface. Silicone caulks do not like to adhere to silicone. Ti do it right you have to remove all of it and scrape it down to the original surface. I generally then go over it with denatured alcohol or laquer thinner. Both of those create a good clean bondable surface.

    When the caulk is wet to dress it I have found the best option rather than using water on the finger to smooth it <100% silicone only> use some paint thinner. That creates a better surface and doesn't leave lint. I personally use Nitril gloves to do this.

    Time as others have said varies with product. properly installed 100% silicone can last over 20 years. Problem is frequently it is not properly installed so I would place it at 7 to 10.

    Latex and latex composition caulks including elastomerics I don't really trust past 5.

    In a Bath or shower my cauld of choice tends to be GE Kitchen and Bath II. Good durability, easy to instal properly, flows well.
    Windows and doors that are going to be painted I tend to choose Dynaflex 230
    For finish carpentry and filling cracks interior that are going to be painted DAP painters caulk <dirt cheap but it is just filling gaps not sealing water>

    Caulk is definitely one of those things that you get what you pay for.

    JSin
    • Re: Caulking a tub?

      Wed, September 30, 2009 - 7:16 AM
      .


      > Caulk is definitely one of those things that you get what you pay for. <


      yeah... isn't getting good caulk worth paying extra for.


      .
  • Re: Caulking a tub?

    Wed, September 30, 2009 - 11:03 AM
    DAP says they have a tub caulk that is Antifungal
    www.omnexus4adhesives.com/servi...s.aspx
    • Re: Caulking a tub?

      Wed, September 30, 2009 - 10:45 PM
      Haven't tried that one. perhaps it is just old school but I go with what I trust. Yeah 24 hours to cure seems a long time but the GE silicone products have consistently worked better for me than latex silicone combination regardless of the mildicide

      JSin
      • Re: Caulking a tub?

        Thu, October 1, 2009 - 11:13 AM
        I built a workshed out back. Running out of windowglass putty, I used some GE clear caulk to seal windowpanes. Today, after 22 years of exposure to snow, rain, and strong Rocky Mountain direct sunshine, the seal is as rubbery, flexible, and secure as ever. I've no doubt the material will go to 25 years, and more.

        Getting mold to grow on the densely arrayed molecular structure of silicon rubber, is like trying to grow mushrooms on a windowpane. Natural fact: > that is just not going to happen.... even in the most steamy of tropical climates.

        Alchohol is best for cleaning tub surround areas prior to caulking... to evaporate out residual water moisture, and to remove soap. residues. Utilizing petro-chemical hydrocarbon -based solvents instead would leave behind a very thin film of oil that may compromise silicon adhesion.

        Do yall know about the teaspoon trick? Lay down about one meter of caulk bead at a time. Then repeatedly dipping the teaspoon into a glass of water, draw the spoon along the bead, pushing the material into the cavities, getting a smooth seamless fillet. For a larger radius fillet, employ a tablespoon. Remember to dip the spoon frequently to keep caulk from loading on to it. In the event, a rag serves to wipe excess from the spoon .

        To seal existing latex caulk and make it stand up better, first clean and dry it, then paint it with a matching color of acrylic enamel bathroom paint. Use paralell lines of masking tape to get a nice straight clean appearing edge.
        • Re: Caulking a tub?

          Thu, October 1, 2009 - 11:28 AM
          Doing it as a contractor the only things I needed with silicone were a finger, a rag and some mineral spirits. Though hugely overpriced <though cheap compared to a contractor> I kinda like the little caulk dressing tool they are selling... Good option for folks that don't run a couple thousand feet of caulk a year.

          JSin
          • Re: Caulking a tub?

            Thu, October 1, 2009 - 12:01 PM
            A clean caulk line posed such a difficulty for me for years and yearts and years.

            Then one day for reasons I can't recall I was not badly positioned leaning over and off balance as I applied the caulk and oddly that time I had no need to interrupt the caulk bead as I lay it down. I didn't stop the caulk line in the middle only to start up again.
            And wouldn't ya know it the bead came out pretty good~!!!

            Plant yerself firmly so you can go from one end of the run to the other without stopping.
            • Re: Caulking a tub?

              Thu, October 1, 2009 - 1:39 PM
              EXACTLY Cliff. It has to be a smooth strike. It takes practice and balance. I was fortunate the guy that taught me siding and dry rot repair has jigs and made me go through 5 full tubes of practice before he let me touch a house. I hated him for it and he was an asshole. I appreciate it now.

              JSin
              • Re: Caulking a tub?

                Thu, October 1, 2009 - 6:22 PM
                I use my finger too. I just put that spoon trick out there for people squeamish about a finger load of goo.

                It goes without saying that you need to work smoothly and neatly and in a dang ol straight line. The point is that once having deposited the material in the seam, however sloppily or neatly, going over it with your finger or a tool will cover up a multitude of sins. At any rate you need to dress the initial bead concave rather than leaving it rounded out like a rope. A concave fillet blended into a radius tangental to both the appliance and tile surround, will leave nowhere for dirt/moisture to enter---- so it's for ease of cleaning as well as appearance.

                Each run of caulk more or less can be blended in to the next through pressing and sculpting with tool or fingertip. The notion of the short bead runs is that caulk starts to set up quick so you want to dress each run before it skins over, and before squirting in the next line.

                You don't need to throw out leftover partly used opened caulk tubes. A fine threaded machine bolt that screws in tight to your open caulk tube nozzle will keep remaining product fresh and usable for many months.
                • Re: Caulking a tub?

                  Fri, October 2, 2009 - 7:07 AM
                  When I've used my finger I ended up making a bigger mess.
                  The caulk ooozes past the finger and up and onto the adjacent surfaces and resists clean up. Then the fine feathered edge that fingering the bead causes lacks strength and ends up being peeled back by mere shower spray over a few weeks and the whole problem starts all over again.


                  • This is the maximum depth. Additional responses will not be threaded.

                    Re: Caulking a tub?

                    Fri, October 2, 2009 - 10:38 PM
                    The finger trick is maybe best left for outdoor pre=paint fill-in caulk jobs.
                    A precision caulk job may require tooling.

                    A spoon is perfect for getting crisp edges to the caulk fillet. Because as you press down and draw the spoon over the bead, the soft material is pushed and formed and molded along into a perfect contour. The two sides of the spoon make contact with the tub and the tile getting you a clean line without feather edge. Material deposited on the outsides of the tool contact lines drawn by the spoon edges can be lifted off with a blade after drying

                    Another method I've developed to get crisp edges is to lay a yardstick over the cured caulk edges and then draw a razor knife straight down along it clear down to the tile. Then you lift off the feather edge with a blade leaving behind a ruler straight fillet..

                    Some folks need to spend $17.95 at Lowes for a special high grade polycarbonate tool to do the same job.But I fail to see the advantage to that when a spoon is already the perfect tool.

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