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How do you prepare a kitchen ceiling to receive new paint?

topic posted Fri, April 10, 2009 - 9:10 PM by  Unsubscribed
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My grimey kitchen ceiling needs new paint but first I have to get the cooking greese off so the paint will stick. Any suggestions as to what product/solution to use?
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    I like TSP. There is a TSP alternative to it you can get it works pretty well too. Both are available in any hardware store.

    If you haven't heard it: The painter tradesman's motto is: "Preparation, preparation, preparation."
    The better you prepare your subsurface for the coating you will apply the better it;ll adhere.
    • Trisodium phosphate is shit you don't want splashing in your eyes as you scrub overhead... and it does no good to skin. Plus it's an additional expense.While laundry powder is not as professional, it's cheap and already available around the house. Laundry powder is formulated to cut grease just as well. Likely anything that doesn't remove following a vigorous laundry powder scrubbing will no longer adversely affect the surface bonding capability of the paint.
      • A lot of folks don't have powder around anymore.

        TSP is also cheap. Neither of them I want in my eyes. So wear goggles when you prep the surface.

        Personally I use the no rinse TSP by Jasco
        www.doityourself.com/invt/u717253

        It is very safe MSDS for those interested as safe if not safer than laundry powder
        www.e-barnett.com/MSDS/002478.pdf

        And has the added benefit of deglossing the surface prior to the application of the new coat.

        One thing I always do when painting a kitchen is after deglossing and cleaning I always Prime. No matter how carefully you clean there is always going to be a slight subsurface oil contamination. Modern primers are formulated to encapsulate and bond to a contaminated surface and create a clean bondable surface to top coat on.

        To keep volatiles down and gain a good surface my preference is for Glidden Gripper brand primer.

        JSin

        • A paste made of Ajax and water will work too, for taking grease and shine off..

          Today's economy interior latex is very versatile... and forgiving. , much of it conceived for general use by amateurs applying one coat.
          • No not really. Todays economy paint is poor covering. Clay is the largest by bulk as far as white filler. That is why it often looks grey. They originally were formulated to be used with sprayers <the clay lubricates the tip and mitigates the abrasion by the titanium dioxide> many of them are what is referred to as a dry coverage paint. It goes on looking patchy and as it drys the paint covers more evenly.
            High Quality latexs can be forgiving but prep is still a requisite.

            Ajax, comet and other scrubbing powders can cause flashing <shiny and dull spots> especially on satin, semiglosses and glosses.

            I tend to take a fairly traditional view on use of paint and I listen to contractors I have worked with and other painting professionals. I clean with an appropriate non reactive cleaner, I fill my holes with painters putty or old style standard spackle. I caulk cracks with a good latex based painters caulk and then prime and paint.

            When I do that and don't try to mess with stuff that is not designed for and tested with paints I never have a problem.

            Paint companies do a shitload of testing to establish best practices and compatibility with standard and common techniques, it generally is in ones best interest when dealing with a material that is based on chemical reactions to use material that is demonstrated not to react in a negative manner. The most expensive part of any project is the labor and time. That gets even higher when you have to scrape and strip paint that did not bond properly.

            JSin
            • Another tip for the first-time do-it-yourselfer without the deep pockets, and having only evenings and weekends to get it done, ...and not really competing with the openhouse model showhome for looks and quality of finish>>>

              For difficult & troublesome interior apps, like a greasy old kitchen ceiling, take and use the cheapest durable *exterior* latex paint, Ask for Chinese paint - it costs cheaper. ... purchased in 5 gallon buckets, and slap it on with a $1.49 3" disposable nylon bristle brush right over grease spatters, dust dirt dinge, fly-specks warts & wrinkles. Exterior latex is tough and thick; it'll cover a multitude of sins. Exterior quality is designed to cover evenly all manner of materials wether wood, masonry, metal, vinyl, sometimes even dirty and without heaps of prep. It'll stick, and hold, look acceptable, and stand up for a long long time. It's even washable. It's what people do.
              Use an off-white, either off-white beige, or near-yellow eggshell color for maximum even coverage. Straight up white, by contrast, may reveal glaring inconsistencies underneath.
              Don't be too critical, this is cheap & quick and very do-it-yourself where time and money are of concern.

              If on the other hand, you are a contractor aiming to please a client with certain expectations,...fielding a team of undocumented laborers, with an open-ended timeframe, and having a blank check to work with that will be covered by the customer down the road, then by all means dedicate whatever it takes to careful preparation, using the very best materials that money will buy for perfect first-class long-lasting results that even Martha would approve of.
              But most of us here at D.I.Y. don't have those kind of resources, and if we did, we'd hire that contractor guy to take on the expensive labor-intensive muss, fuss, and bother.... and as a bonus, we'd even have somebody to complain at, how it wasn't done perfect, after it's all over.
              • Still doesn't make sense to me to do a shitty job. Costs are relative I guess. To do it right.

                Jasco TSP substitute 6.95
                Glidden Gripper 1 gallon 16.95
                Behr Premium plus I gallon Semi gloss interior 19.95 <you can go satin but not as scrubable>
                43.85

                Sundries
                Purdy roller covers 3 pack 9.99 <you won't be picking lint off your walls and they actually carry a decent amount of paint>
                Purdy 3 pack brushes 19.99
                Roller cage locking 6.99
                disposable paint tray liner .99
                Paint tray 2.99
                5 way painters tool 3.99
                44.94

                Buying quality roller covers and brushes if you clean and maintain them you can get 2 or 3 jobs out of a cover. You use the curved area of the painters tool to scrape down the roller and wash in warm water. Brushes clean up after you use them. I have purdys still in use that are 10 years old. A couple extra bucks for a goos roller cage keeps you from having to chase the roller back onto the cage. Good brushes if you practice keep you from having to tape out the edges..They will actually cover in one pass

                So for 88.79 you can do the job well and have a result that is worth looking at. Understand your home in general is a persons biggest investment.

                For the record to have it done would cost labor plus materials. The cost of sundries would go away but it would be replaced with labor.
                Most places charge a 4 hour minimum and depending on your area will be hourly somewhere between 70 and 150 and hour.

                It still makes sense to do it right. Do it once and frankly 100.00 isn't that much money to do it right the first time. Doing it on the cheap makes for poor results and later expenses whether it is your house sitting on the market at sale time or having to fix the crap before you can sell..

                Perhaps it is a difference in philosophy but even before I started working in remodeling I always strove to do it right. Once I got into the field I constantly was confronted with jobs where the homeowner had done a half asses job and I had to fix it. In fact it got so bad at times i would simply bid the job up if I knew the homeowner had been fucking around before calling me. This was not retribution or anything like that. I simply knew I was going to have to spend more time redoing shit to get the job done.

                Maybe I'm wrong but I have little patience for piss poor work

                JSin
  • The best and cheapest is using "White Vinegar" . I have used it to clean the ceiling manny times. the smell will be gone the next day and it will be ready for paint. "" White Vinegar is the most usefull item in the food system. the Odor does not stay around long. It is good for 1000 + things and been used for 100s of years.

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